A briefe relation of the New found lande, and the
commodities thereof.
THAT which we doe call the Newfound land, and the
Frenchmen Bacalaos, is an Iland, or rather (after the
opinion of some) it consisteth of sundry Ilands and
broken lands, situate in the North regions of America
,
upon the gulfe and entrance of the great river called S.
Laurence in Canada
. Into the which, navigation may
be made both on the South and North side of this Iland.
The land lyeth South and North, containing in length
betweene three & 400 miles, accounting from cape Race
(which is in 46 degrees 25 minuts) unto the Grand bay
in 52 degrees of Septentrionall latitude. The Iland round
about hath very many goodly bayes and harbors, safe
roads for ships, the like not to be found in any part of
the knowen world.
The common opinion that is had of intemperature &
extreme cold that should be in this countrey, as of some
part it may be verified, namely the North, where I grant
it is more colde then in
countries of Europe, which are
under the same elevation: even so it cannot stand with
reason and nature of the clime, that the South parts
should be so intemperate as the brute hath gone. For
as the same doe lie under the climats of Briton, Anjou
,
Poictou in France, betweene 46 and 49 degrees, so can
they not so much differ from the temperature of those
countries: unlesse upon the outcoast lying open unto the
Ocean and sharpe windes, it must in deede be subject
to more colde, then further within the land, where the
mountaines are interposed, as walles and bulwarkes, to
defend and to resist the asperitie and rigor of the sea
and weather. Some hold opinion, that the Newfound
land might be the more subject to cold, by how much
it lyeth high and neere unto the middle region. I grant
that not in Newfound land alone, but in Germany
, Italy
and Afrike, even under the Equinoctiall line, the mountaines are extreme cold, and seeldome uncovered of snow,
in their culme and highest tops, which commeth to passe
by the same reason that they are extended towards the
middle region: yet in the countries lying beneth them,
it is found quite contrary. Even so all hils having their
discents, the valleis also and low grounds must be likewise hot or temperate, as the clime doeth give in Newfound land: though I am of opinion that the Sunnes
reflection is much cooled, and cannot be so forcible in
the Newfound land, nor generally throughout America
,
as in Europe
or Afrike: by how much the Sunne in his
diurnall course from East to West, passeth over (for
the most part) dry land and sandy countries, before he
arriveth at the West of Europe or Afrike, whereby his
motion increaseth heate, with little or no qualification
by moyst vapours. Where, on the contrarie he passeth
from Europe
and Afrike unto America
over the Ocean,
from whence it draweth and carieth with him abundance
of moyst vapours, which doe qualifie and infeeble greatly
the Sunnes reverberation upon this countrey chiefly of
Newfound land, being so much to the Northward.
Neverthelesse (as I sayd before) the cold cannot be so
intollerable under the latitude of 46 47 and 48 (especiall
within land) that it should be unhabitable, as some doe
suppose, seeing also there are very many people more
to the North by a great deale. And in these South parts
there be certaine beastes, Ounces or Leopards, and birdes
in like maner which in the Sommer we have seene, not
heard of in countries of extreme and vehement coldnesse.
Besides, as in the monethes of June, July, August and
September, the heate is somewhat more then in England
at those seasons: so men remaining upon the South
parts neere unto
Cape Rece, untill after Hollandtide, have
not found the cold so extreme, nor much differing from
the temperature of England
. Those which have arrived
there after November and December, have found the
snow exceeding deepe, whereat no marvaile, considering
the ground upon the coast, is rough and uneven, and
the snow is driven into the places most declyning as the
like is to be seene with us. The like depth of snow
happily shall not be found within land upon the playner
countries, which also are defended by the mountaines,
breaking off the violence of winds and weather. But
admitting extraordinary cold in those South parts, above
that with us here: it can not be so great as in
Swedland,
much lesse in
Moscovia or Russia
: yet are the same
countries very populous, and the rigor of cold is dispensed
with by the commoditie of Stoves, warme clothing, meats
and drinkes: all which neede not to be wanting in the
Newfound land, if we had intent there to inhabite.
In the South parts we found no inhabitants, which
by all likelihood have abandoned those coastes, the same
being so much frequented by Christians: But in the
North are savages altogether harmelesse. Touching the
commodities of this countrie, serving either for sustentation of inhabitants, or for maintenance of traffique,
there are & may be made divers: so yt it seemeth Nature
hath recompenced that only defect and incommoditie of
some sharpe cold, by many benefits: viz. With incredible
quantitie, and no lesse varietie of kindes of fish in the
sea and fresh waters, as Trouts, Salmons and other fish
to us unknowen: Also Cod, which alone draweth many
nations thither, and is become the most famous fishing
of the world. Abundance of Whales, for which also is
a very great trade in the bayes of Placentia
& the Grand
bay, where is made Traine oiles of the Whale: Herring
the largest that have bene heard of, and exceeding the
Malstrond herring of Norway
: but hitherto was never
benefit taken of the herring fishing. There are sundry
other fish very delicate, namely the Bonito
, Lobsters,
Turbut, with others infinite not sought after: Oysters
having pearle but not orient in colour: I tooke it by
reason they were not gathered in season.
Concerning the inland commodities, aswel to be drawen
from this land, as from the exceeding large countries
adjoyning: there is nothing which our East and Northerly
countries of Europe doe yeelde, but the like also may
be made in them as plentifully by time and industrie:
Namely, rosen, pitch, tarre, sopeashes, dealboord, mastes
for ships, hides, furres, flaxe, hempe, corne, cables,
cordage, linnen-cloth, mettals and many more. All which
the countries will aford, and the soyle is apt to yeelde.
The trees for the most in those South parts, are
Firretrees, Pine and Cypresse, all yeelding Gumme and
Turpentine.
Cherrie trees bearing fruit no bigger than a small
pease. Also peare trees, but fruitlesse. Other trees of
some sorts to us unknowen.
The soyle along the coast is not deepe of earth, bringing foorth abundantly peason small, yet good feeding
for cattel. Roses passing sweet, like unto our muske
roses in forme, raspases, a berry which we call Hurts,
good and holesome to eat. The grasse and herbe doth
fat sheepe in very short space, proved by English marchants which have caried sheepe thither for fresh victuall
and had them raised exceeding fat in lesse then three
weekes. Peason which our countreymen have sowen in
the time of May, have come up faire, and bene gathered
in the beginning of August, of which our Generall had
a present acceptable for the rarenesse, being the first
fruits comming up by art and industrie in that desolate
and dishabited land.
Lakes or pooles of fresh water, both on the tops of
mountaines and in the vallies. In which are said to be
muskles not unlike to have pearle, which I had put in
triall, if by mischance falling unto me, I had not bene
letted from that and other good experiments I was
minded to make.
Foule both of water and land in great plentie and
diversitie. All kind of greene foule: Others as bigge
as Bustards, yet not the same. A great white foule
called of some a Gaunt.
Upon the land divers sorts of haukes, as faulcons, and
others by report: Partridges most plentifull larger then
ours, gray and white of colour, and rough footed like
doves, which our men after one flight did kill with
cudgels, they were so fat and unable to flie. Birds some
like blackbirds, linnets, canary birds, and other very
small. Beasts of sundry kindes, red deare, buffles or a
beast, as it seemeth by the tract & foote very large in
maner of an oxe. Beares, ounces or leopards, some
greater & some lesser, wolves, foxes, which to the Northward a litle further are black, whose furre is esteemed
in some
Countries of Europe very rich. Otters, bevers,
marternes: And in the opinion of most men that saw
it, the Generall had brought unto him a Sable alive,
which he sent unto his brother sir John Gilbert knight
of Devonshire
: but it was never delivered, as after I
understood. We could not observe the hundreth part of
creatures in those unhabited lands: but these mentioned
may induce us to glorifie the magnificent God, who hath
superabundantly replenished the earth with creatures
serving for the use of man, though man hath not used
a fift part of the same, which the more doth aggravate
the fault and foolish slouth in many of our nation, chusing rather to live indirectly, and very miserably to live
& die within this realme pestered with inhabitants, then
to adventure as becommeth men, to obtaine an habitation
in those remote lands, in which Nature very prodigally
doth minister unto mens endevours, and for art to worke
upon.
For besides these alreadie recounted and infinite moe,
the mountaines generally make shew of minerall substance: Iron very common, lead, and somewhere copper.
I will not averre of richer mettals: albeit by the circumstances following, more then hope may be conceived
thereof.
For amongst other charges given to inquire out the
singularities of this countrey, the Generall was most
curious in the search of mettals, commanding the minerall
man and refiner, especially to be diligent. The same
was a Saxon
borne, honest and religious, named Daniel.
Who after search brought at first some sort of Ore,
seeming rather to be yron then other mettall. The next
time he found Ore, which with no small shew of contentment he delivered unto the General, using protestation,
that if silver were the thing which might satisfie the
Generall & his followers, there it was, advising him to
seeke no further: the perill whereof he undertooke upon
his life (as deare unto him as the Crowne of England
unto her Majestie, that I may use his owne words) if it
fell not out accordingly.
My selfe at this instant liker to die then to live, by
a mischance, could not follow this confident opinion of
our refiner to my owne satisfaction: but afterward demanding our Generals opinion therein, and to have some
part of the Ore, he replied: Content your selfe, I have
seene ynough, and were it but to satisfie my private
humor, I would proceede no further. The promise unto
my friends, and necessitie to bring also the South countries within compasse of my Patent neere expired, as we
have alreadie done these North parts, do only perswade
me further. And touching the Ore, I have sent it aboord,
whereof I would have no speech to be made so long as
we remaine within harbor: here being both Portugals,
Biscains and Frenchmen not farre off, from whom must
be kept any bruit or muttering of such matter. When
we are at sea proofe shalbe made: if it be to our desire,
we may returne the sooner hither againe. Whose answere
I judged reasonable, and contenting me well: wherewith
I will conclude this narration and description of the
Newfound land, and proceede to the rest of our voyage,
which ended tragically.
WHILE the better sort of us were seriously occupied in
repairing our wants, and contriving of matters for the
commoditie of our voyage: others of another sort & disposition were plotting of mischiefe. Some casting to
steale away our shipping by night, watching oportunitie
by the Generals and Captaines lying on the shore: whose
conspiracies discovered, they were prevented. Others
drew togither in company, and caried away out of the
harbors adjoyning, a ship laden with fish, setting the
poore men on shore. A great many more of our people
stole into the woods to hide themselves, attending time
and meanes to returne home by such shipping as daily
departed from the coast. Some were sicke of fluxes,
and many dead: and in briefe, by one meanes or other
our company was diminished, and many by the Generall
licensed to returne home. Insomuch as after we had
reviewed our people, resolved to see an end of our voyage,
we grewe scant of men to furnish all our shipping: it
seemed good therefore unto the Generall to leave the
Swallowe with such provision as might be spared for
transporting home the sicke people.
The Captaine of the Delight or Admirall returned into
England
, in whose stead was appointed Captaine Maurice
Browne, before Captaine of the Swallow: who also
brought with him into the Delight all his men of the
Swallow, which before have bene noted of outrage
perpetrated and committed upon fishermen there met at
sea.
The Generall made choise to goe in his frigate the
Squirrell (whereof the Captaine also was amongst them
that returned into England
) the same Frigate being most
convenient to discover upon the coast, and to search into
every harbor or creeke, which a great ship could not doe.
Therefore the Frigate was prepared with her nettings &
fights, and overcharged with bases and such small Ordinance, more to give a shew, then with judgement to
foresee unto the safetie of her and the men, which afterward was an occasion also of their overthrow.
Now having made readie our shipping, that is to say,
the Delight, the golden Hinde, and the Squirrell, and
put aboord our provision, which was wines, bread or
ruske, fish wette and drie, sweete oiles: besides many
other, as marmalades, figs, lymmons barrelled, and such
like: Also we had other necessary provisions for trimming
our ships, nets and lines to fish withall, boates or pinnesses fit for discovery. In briefe, we were supplied of
our wants commodiously, as if we had bene in a Countrey
or some Citie populous and plentifull of all things.
We departed from this harbour of S. Johns upon
Tuesday the twentieth of August, which we found by
exact observation to be in 47 degrees 40 minutes. And
the next day by night we were at
Cape Race, 25 leagues
from the same harborough.
This Cape lyeth South Southwest from S. Johns: it is a
low land, being off from the Cape about halfe a league:
within the sea riseth up a rocke against the point of the
Cape, which thereby is easily knowen: It is in latitude
46 degrees 25 minutes.
Under this Cape we were becalmed a small time, during
which we layd out hookes and lines to take Codde, and
drew in lesse then two houres, fish so large and in such
abundance, that many dayes after we fed upon no other
provision.
From hence we shaped our course unto the
Island of
Sablon, if conveniently it would so fall out, also directly
to
Cape Briton.
Sablon lieth to the sea-ward of
Cape Briton about
25 leagues, whither we were determined to goe upon
intelligence we had of a Portugal
, (during our abode in S.
Johns) who was himself present, when the Portugals
(above thirty yeeres past) did put into the same Island
both Neat and Swine to breede, which were since exceedingly multiplied. This seemed unto us very happy
tidings, to have in an Island lying so neere unto the
maine, which we intended to plant upon, such store of
cattell, whereby we might at all times conveniently be
relieved of victuall, and served of store for breed.
In this course we trended along the coast, which from
Cape Race stretcheth into the Northwest, making a bay
which some called Trepassa. Then it goeth out againe
toward the West, and maketh a point, which with
Cape
Race lieth in maner East and West. But this point
inclineth to the North: to the West of which goeth in the
bay of Placentia
. We sent men on land to take view
of the soyle along this coast, whereof they made good
report, and some of them had wil to be planted there.
They saw Pease growing in great abundance every where.
The distance betweene
Cape Race and
Cape Briton
is 87 leagues. In which Navigation we spent 8 dayes,
having many times the wind indifferent good: yet could
we never attaine sight of any land all that time, seeing we
were hindred by the current. At last we fell into such
flats and dangers, that hardly any of us escaped: where
neverthelesse we lost our Admiral with al the men and
provision, not knowing certainly the place. Yet for
inducing men of skill to make conjecture, by our course
and way we held from
Cape Race thither (that thereby the
flats and dangers may be inserted in sea Cards, for warn
ing to others that may follow the same course hereafter)
I have set downe the best reckonings that were kept
by expert men, William Cox Master of the Hind, and
John Paul his mate, both of Limehouse
.
